homesteading

Designing a Dexter Cattle Operation for Extreme Winter Weather

An Educational Resource for New Dexter Owners

Dexter cattle have a well-earned reputation for being hardy, efficient, and capable of handling conditions that challenge many larger beef breeds. That reputation draws new owners in. It can also quietly set them up for trouble if it leads to the belief that winter preparedness is optional.

It is rarely the Dexter cattle that fail in severe cold.
It is systems.

And occasionally, knees, fingers, and judgment before the second cup of coffee.

This article is written as an educational resource for farm organizations, breed associations, and new Dexter owners who want to build operations that function reliably when winter conditions are at their worst. It blends research-based guidance with practical, on-the-ground experience, because winter does not care how things looked on paper in July.

Understanding Dexter Cattle and Cold Stress

Dexter cattle tolerate cold well due to their dense winter coats, efficient metabolism, and generally lower maintenance requirements. Cold tolerance, however, is not immunity.

Research consistently shows that cattle experience cold stress when environmental conditions force them to burn additional energy to maintain normal body temperature. Wind, moisture, inadequate calories, poor body condition, and limited access to water all accelerate this process. Over time, cold stress can lead to weight loss, suppressed immunity, and reproductive impacts.

Dexters can handle winter.
Winter still has rules.

Preparedness Starts With Farm Design, Not the Forecast

The most difficult winter situations occur when chores become reactive instead of routine. A well-designed farm reduces emergency labor. A poorly designed one forces risky decisions during storms.

Preparedness begins with infrastructure choices made long before the first weather advisory.

Water Infrastructure: Design for Failure, Not Convenience

Water systems are the most common winter failure point on livestock farms.

Water lines do not fail politely, during daylight, or when conditions are mild.

Water lines

  • Must be buried below local frost depth, not estimated depth
  • Long runs to remote pastures increase freeze risk
  • Fewer reliable water points outperform many marginal ones

Hydrants and valves

  • Freeze-proof hydrants must be installed correctly with proper drainage
  • Gravel beds must remain uncompacted
  • Low areas prone to runoff and drifting snow should be avoided

Heated water troughs

  • Use livestock-rated heaters only
  • Protect wiring from moisture and rodents
  • Always plan for power loss

Solar water systems can work well when designed properly, but winter realities must be considered. Battery capacity must account for short daylight hours, panels must shed snow, and output will be reduced during prolonged storms.

A water system that works flawlessly nine months of the year can still become a liability if it requires wrestling frozen hardware in the dark while livestock observe quietly and reconsider their respect for you.

Power Systems: Assume the Grid Will Fail

Winter storms routinely knock out power for days. Generators should be considered core farm safety equipment, not optional upgrades.

They are rarely purchased because everything is going well.

A generator should be capable of supporting:

  • Well pumps
  • Heated water troughs
  • Essential barn lighting
  • Minimal equipment needs

Fuel storage should cover multiple days of operation. Electrical layouts should prioritize critical systems and protect wiring and outlets from moisture, snow, and rodents.

Electric Fencing in Winter Conditions

Electric fencing behaves differently in cold weather.

  • Grid-powered chargers are vulnerable to outages
  • Frozen ground reduces grounding efficiency
  • Snow and ice can short fence lines

Solar chargers provide valuable redundancy but must be sized for winter conditions and maintained during snow events.

Frozen ground has very little respect for even the most carefully installed grounding systems.

Redundancy matters more than strength.

Farm Layout and Human Safety

Dexter cattle generally move through snow with impressive confidence.
The person carrying feed across ice often does not, even when wearing boots marketed as “winter rated.”

A winter-ready farm layout:

  • Places water, feed, and shelter within safe walking distance
  • Avoids slopes and shaded areas that ice over
  • Uses natural windbreaks around feeding and watering areas
  • Does not rely on vehicles for daily care

Farm layouts designed on pleasant spring afternoons tend to reveal their weaknesses during January wind events.

Feeding and Watering During Extreme Cold

Cold increases energy requirements. Research indicates cattle may require 7–10% more energy for each degree below their lower critical temperature, particularly when wind and moisture are present.

Preparedness includes:

  • Staging hay before storms
  • Reserving higher-quality forage for calves, seniors, and thin animals
  • Reducing unnecessary cattle movement that increases energy loss

Water intake must be monitored closely. Frozen or inaccessible water leads directly to reduced feed intake and increased cold stress.

Human Safety Is Herd Health

Human safety is often discussed last, despite being the single point of failure that immediately compromises animal care.

Dexter cattle may be perfectly comfortable standing in a snowstorm.
The person doing chores is the variable.

Most winter injuries occur due to slips near water sources, fatigue, rushing, or poor visibility. Clothing, lighting, rest, and task consolidation are safety requirements, not luxuries.

Knowing When to Pause

Preparedness includes restraint.

No routine chore improves outcomes when visibility is poor, footing is unsafe, and the operator is one misstep away from becoming the emergency. Calm, consistent care is safer and more effective than heroic effort.

Dexter Cattle Cold Stress Checklist (Quick Reference)

Before the Storm

  • Body condition assessed (target BCS 5–6)
  • Extra hay staged
  • Backup water plan ready
  • Generator tested and fueled
  • Vulnerable animals identified

During the Storm

  • Daily visual health checks
  • Feed and water intake monitored
  • Ice removed safely
  • Shelter use observed
  • Human fatigue managed

After the Storm

  • Body condition reassessed
  • Water systems inspected
  • Fencing and shelters checked
  • Lessons documented

Dexter cattle are resilient. Winter preparedness is not about proving toughness. It is about designing systems that still work when conditions degrade and the person doing the chores is already tired.

Final Perspective

Dexter cattle are resilient. Farms must be designed to match that resilience.

Extreme winter weather does not test commitment. It tests whether systems were built to function when conditions deteriorate. Preparedness is not bravado. It is making sure that when winter does what winter does, both cattle and caretakers come through it intact.

And preferably upright.

Michele DeVinney Schmoll is a Virginia farm owner at DeVine Farms Quality Dexters. She raises Irish Dexter Cattle and writes from firsthand experience, because farms don’t read instruction manuals.  http://www.devinefarms.net/

Author’s Note

This article is written from a practical livestock-owner perspective, informed by university extension research and shaped by real-world experience managing animals during prolonged cold, power outages, and severe winter storms. The intent is not to present idealized systems, but to encourage farm designs and management decisions that reduce risk for both cattle and the people responsible for their care. Preparedness is most effective when it reflects what winter actually demands on the ground.

REFERENCE LITERATURE (CLICKABLE LINKS)

Cold stress basics, winter readiness, and management

1) University of Minnesota Extension — Preparing your cattle for severe winter weather

https://extension.umn.edu/beef-cow-calf/preparing-your-cattle-severe-winter-weather

2) University of Nebraska–Lincoln (UNL) — Feeding Cows for Cold Weather (energy needs vs wind chill; lower critical temp)

https://newsroom.unl.edu/announce/beef/2919/16315

3) Virginia Tech / Virginia Cooperative Extension (VCE) — The Cow-Calf Manager: Extra Energy Needed During Cold Weather (archived newsletter)

https://www.sites.ext.vt.edu/newsletter-archive/livestock/aps-01_02/aps-0311.html

4) UNL BeefWatch — Winterizing your cowherd: Managing cows through cold stress

https://beef.unl.edu/beefwatch/2024/winterizing-your-cowherd-managing-cows-through-cold-stress

Calves and high-risk groups

5) Virginia Tech / VCE — The Cow-Calf Manager: Cold stress on calves (archived newsletter)

https://sites.ext.vt.edu/newsletter-archive/livestock/aps-07_02/aps-403.html

Emergency preparedness and disaster planning resources

6) UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine — Emergency Preparedness and Response (hub)

https://response.vetmed.ucdavis.edu

7) UC Davis Emergency Preparedness & Response — Resources page (includes livestock disaster preparedness links) https://response.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/resources

Optional (useful supporting reading for farm org audiences)

8) West Virginia University Extension — Lingering effects of cold stress (weather + animal factors) https://extension.wvu.edu/agriculture/livestock/beef-cattle/lingering-effects-of-cold-stress

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Farm Management

Rabbit Raising – Part 1: Keeping Them Alive

Before you buy rabbits, decide why you’re raising them. This one choice affects everything else.

Beginner Tip: Don’t buy rabbits first and figure out a plan later. Housing and purpose should come beforebreed.

Why Are You Raising Rabbits?

Pets / Show Sales

  • Choose popular, marketable breeds (Rex do well)
  • Breed for traits buyers want: color, coat, size, personality
  • Breed to SOP
  • Watch trends, but also look for gaps in your local market

**I do not enjoy selling pet rabbits but it is an option. 

Beginner Tip: Spend time watching local listings and social media before breeding. What’s already selling tells you what people want.

Food

  • Focus on fast-growing, efficient breeds (New Zealand, Californian)
  • Breed for size and speed to market, not looks

Beginner Tip: Bigger and faster is usually better than “prettier” when raising meat rabbits.

Housing Options

Cages

  • Require climate control
  • Easier breeding control and litter monitoring
  • Less natural, more predictable

Beginner Tip: Cage systems are often easier for first-time breeders because problems are easier to spot early.

Colony

  • Rabbits regulate temperature by digging
  • Little breeding control unless sexes are separated
  • Must prevent escape
  • Introduce rabbits at the same time to reduce fighting

Beginner Tip: Colony systems work best when planned ahead, retrofitting almost always causes headaches.

Hybrid

  • Colony-style living with barriers to prevent digging out
  • Requires weather monitoring, especially in summer
  • Include an underground or partially buried area for cooling

Beginner Tip: Hybrid systems offer a good balance for beginners who want natural behavior with some control.

Shelter Setup

Primary Shelter
Where your breeders live.

Beginner Tip: If breeders are stressed, everything else goes downhill: prioritize this space.

Grow-Out Area
A separate space for young rabbits so breeders don’t get overcrowded.

Beginner Tip: Overcrowding is a fast way to create health problems.

Rabbit Tractor
A movable pen for grow-outs that provides lawn care.

Beginner Tip: Tractors are great for grow-outs, but not ideal for breeders long-term.

Substrate Choices

  • Hay: Great for nesting, edible, but holds moisture and waste
  • Wood Chips: Similar to hay, not edible
  • Wood Pellets: Absorb liquid well, easy to clean, usually the most expensive

Beginner Tip: If something smells bad, it’s time to change it, even if the schedule says otherwise.

Food & Feeding Basics

  • Free-feed quality rabbit pellets
  • Supplement with grass or garden clippings when possible
  • Keep food off the ground

Beginner Tip: Most feeding problems are actually feeder placement problems, not feed problems.

Common Beginner Concerns

Choosing Rabbits

  • Decide on housing first
  • Cage-raised rabbits may struggle outdoors in heat
  • Colony-raised rabbits usually adapt better to cages, but may struggle mentally

Beginner Tip: Ask breeders how their rabbits were raised before buying.

Heat

  • Underground hides work best
  • Fans and frozen water bottles help
  • Always provide plenty of water

Beginner Tip: Heat kills faster than cold, plan for summer first.

Cold

  • Rarely a problem
  • Keep rabbits dry and out of wind

Beginner Tip: Wet + cold is dangerous; dry + cold usually isn’t.

Losses

  • Some losses are normal
  • Disease and stress happen

Beginner Tip: Everyone loses rabbits at some point—don’t quit after the first setback.

Health Issues to Watch For

Coccidia

  • Weight loss, dirty tails
  • Treat quickly
  • Many breeders select for resistance

Beginner Tip: Clean, dry pens dramatically reduce coccidia risk.

Weaning Enteritis

  • Around 4 weeks old
  • Often sudden and severe

Beginner Tip: Watch young rabbits closely during weaning, it’s the most vulnerable time.

GI Stasis

  • Gut slowdown
  • Remove pellets, offer grass hay

Beginner Tip: When in doubt, simplify the diet.

Pasteurella

  • Spread by wild rabbits
  • Often fatal
  • Symptoms: heavy sneezing, nasal discharge, lethargy

Beginner Tip: Occasional sneezing is normal—constant sneezing with discharge is not.

Rabbit Raising – Part 1: Keeping Them Alive Read More »

Homesteading

Broken Arrow “A” Livestock

Broken Arrow “A” Livestock is a small farm in Southwest Iowa owned and operated by Aaron and Erica Lantz and their two sons.  Aaron represents the 5th generation of Lantz’s who have produced livestock on the property since 1872.  In 2009, we decided to begin producing our own pork because we were disenchanted with purchased commercial pork.  Aaron’s father and grandfather both raised hogs in a 60 sow farrow to finish program as he was growing up.  In the 1970’s and 1980’s, their program was to buy a non-descript black hog out of Missouri known locally as “Missouri Acorn Hogs”.  They were an old lard-type crossbred hog that could be purchased cheap.  They had excellent mothering abilities and when crossed with Farmer’s Hybrid boars, produced strong litters of hogs that performed well.  These hogs were fatty, but not necessarily fatty enough to be considered a lard style hog.  Beginning in the 1980’s, buyers would dock these hogs as being too fatty in favor of leaner breeds.  For a while, it was worthwhile to take a dock at the buyers and justify the loss as the price paid for ease of management.  Eventually, these hogs were refused at the buyers and we had to stop raising them since there was no way to sell them.  We retained gilts from our program and began introducing leaner breed boars.  We used various breeds to build our program including:  Hampshire, Landrace, Duroc, and Berkshire.  Every two years we would retain new gilts and buy a new breed of boar from a reputable breeder to maximize heterosis.  Eventually, even these hogs did not meet market demands and we were forced to stop raising them.  Eventually, these hogs were sold and the Lantz family purchased Yorks and began raising a true commercial hog.  This endeavor was short lived, since the hog market crashed in the late 1990’s and the family decided to exit hog production entirely. 

Aaron knew what good pork was supposed to taste like, but it wasn’t possible to replicate the breeding program originating from the Missouri Acorn Hog sows and Farmer’s Hybrid boars.  We had an ideal carcass in mind and began researching which heritage breed would most likely result in the ideal carcass type.  This lead us to purchase our first Red Wattles in 2009.  We learned quickly that Red Wattles are VERY large and between the slow growth curve, small litters, and large feed inputs…we would be challenged to be profitable.  However, we also found that we absolutely loved the carcass.  It is not as deeply red as Berkshire, but has a rich and distinctive flavor with an ideal balance of fat.  We decided that Kune Kune would be a good compliment to the extreme size of the Red Wattle without compromising carcass quality or the docility and easy handling nature of the hogs.  Red Wattles are thought to be a Polynesian breed that made it to New Orleans by way of the French and the breed was resurrected from wild hogs used to homestead Texas.  Kune Kune are also Polynesian and share some attributes like wattling, so it made sense to us to make the cross.  This launched us on a path of dialing in our genetics with the goal of achieving the perfect carcass using a hog ideal to manage.  We have strategically introduced the following breeds:

  • Mangalitsa for carcass attributes including a low collagen fat complex.  This breed can be challenging to raise in the summer heat of Iowa and can be challenging to handle. 
  • Iowa Swabian Hall is a similar composite program to our own and we sought to add the work done by other breeders to consolidate the value.
  • Meishan was introduced for their prolific litters and early maturation in addition to carcass flavor attributes and fat distribution in the carcass.
  • Mulefoot and Ossabaw are Spanish type genetics known for their carcass complex ideal for curing. 
  • Gloucestershire Old Spot and Large Black are old British breeds known for their balance of carcass attributes and management attributes. 
  • A very small amount of Berkshire was used in the program.  To obtain the genetics we sought, we sometimes had to use crossbred animals.  Berkshire is a popular breed to make heritage type crosses and, while we didn’t actively seek to use Berkshire specifically, we were not opposed to these genetics for their carcass color and flavor attributes. 

At first, we had a significant amount of variety in our crossbred animals.  After having obtained the genetics we thought we needed to create the ideal hog, we closed the program.  We didn’t actively make a decision to close the program, but rather ran out of need to obtain animals from outside programs.  To standardize our hogs, we began using a program to select for replacement breeding stock within our own herd and rotating males and females strategically to use linebreeding to concentrate ideal attributes in a consistent “type”.  We’ve maintained this program for approximately the last 10 years.  We still get some variety in the offspring, but we are becoming more consistent for type and performance with each rotation.  The program goes as follows:  We obtain a group of like gilts the same age.  The goal is to start with 40 gilts, but cull over the coarse of 3 litters to the 10 most ideal and productive females.  We retain the boars we were using for the previous breeding that sired the current group of gilts.  We use those boars on the new group of gilts for one breeding.  There is a chance a sire could breed a daughter, but the pairings are left to chance and often times the boar that breeds any given gilt is not that gilt’s sire.  From this first set of litters we select 6-9 boar prospects and begin growing them with the intention that 2-3 of these will be used to propagate more breeding stock.  We get a second set of litters from the aged boars and all of those offspring are terminal.  We will sell breeding stock females from this group that people can use in their own “heritage type” programs.  After the second set of litters we cull the older boars.  The younger boars take over for the third and fourth sets of litters.  This means that the new boars are sons of the females used to breed.  Again, random pairings ensure some genetic diversity and there is no guarantee that a son breeds his dam…though it is possible.  The third set of litters is also terminal.  We don’t save anything from these litters, but we do assess their quality and use this to arrive at our 10 best sows.  It is from these sows bred to the new boars that we save back a new group of 40 females and begin growing them.  We will get a 5th and 6th set of litters from the older sows so that we remain productive while growing the replacement gilt group, but these offspring will all be terminal.  It is at this point we part with all the older female breeding stock and start over with the same boars we’d been using and a new group of gilts to repeat the process again.  Each cycle, we select animals that meet our ideals and the offspring become more consistent in type and performance.  Because random pairings are utilized, this program can be maintained indefinitely with little detriment to the performance of the hogs and over time the risk of recessive disorders cropping up decreases.  We are just very careful to cull any animals that produce issues and only select ideal animals to reproduce.  Eventually, we will have achieved a proprietary “landrace” breed that we could consider recognizing as a true breed.  At this time, creating a new, recognized breed is not part of our plans.  We are just happy to raise a hog that we are proud to feed our family with.

Producers wishing to obtain genetics have lots of options for utilizing those genetics to benefit their personal production goals.  We suggest breeding our seedstock to Hereford, Tamworth, Berkshire, or Idaho Pasture Pigs.  These breeds are complimentary and offer lots of heterosis.  We are very confident in performance and carcass quality.  We expect our hogs to grow to a normal marketable weight at about 300 lbs with a reasonably significant fat layer without being excessive and low in collagen.  Meat should be darker complected (though not as dark as to be comparable to beef or called “red”) and show good marbling with a texture and juiciness more comparable to beef than to commercial pork.  Cuts will be disproportionate in size to comparable commercial breed cuts, because these heritage-type hogs will flesh and grow differently with a different frame structure that impacts cut size and shape.  The flavor should be rich and distinct.  While not technically either “beefy” or “porky”, the flavor should parallel the mouth appeal and richness of beef though it is not the same flavor as beef.  Producers could also choose to breed to any of the genetics used to develop these hogs in an effort to strengthen certain key attributes.  Breeding to Red Wattle, Iowa Swabian Hall, or Mangalitsa are good choices to enhance management attributes while keeping the carcass attributes of the paired breed.  Really, these hogs are very versatile and could be successfully leveraged to add benefit to just about any program with any goals.

Erica Lantz 

Feeders Grain & Farm Supply Inc 

2052 Hunter Trail 

Corning, Iowa 50841

P: 641-322-4011

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Homesteading

Sustainability Podcast – The Irish Dexter

Sustainability Podcast - The Irish Dexter History

A Deep Dive Podcast, brought to you by Irish Dexter Cattlemen, on topics of interest to all farmers and ranchers. Subscribe to the free, monthly Irish Dexter Cattlemen Tips & Tricks Guide to get early access.

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Podcasts

Cattle and Kids Safety Tips

What an idyllic picture kids and animals paint. County fairs are full of animals, including cattle, being lead around the show ring by their young owners.

The homestead dream, complete with family milk cow, gives off major romantic vibes. But what does it actually take for children and cattle to interact safely on the farm or homestead?

Here are a few tips and suggestions from our family farm:

Because children are low to the ground, and their movements tend to be quick, cattle can view them as predators. Talk to kids about how important it is to move slowly/deliberately and to behave calmly and quietly when they’re around cows (especially a cow that is not familiar to them).

When introducing kids to a new cow, be sure the cow is safely restrained. I like to tie our cows on a halter with a slip knot. Kids can approach from the side or front of the cow (not the back), and talk to the cow.

Cows in a herd will groom each other, and mother cows will also bond with their calves by grooming them. A great way for kids to get to know and bond with a cow is to spend time brushing them. Our cows prefer to be brushed on the neck, shoulders and along the back.

If you have children and are purchasing a cow for the first time, it is helpful to look for a cow that has been handled/shown by children and is familiar with them.

And my final tip is to be confident! Fear teaches us to expect the worst. Set yourself up for success by following these tips, and be confident when you and your kids interact with cattle. If you find yourself becoming fearful, remove yourself from the situation, and try again another time.

I hope these tips and suggestions help you build a strong bond with between your cattle, yourself and your children!

Cattle and Kids Safety Tips Read More »

Farm Management

Soap Making

Getting Into Soap Making: A Farm-Rooted Approach

by Lexy Schussler

    On the farm, there’s always a project going on.

    Whether it’s fixing fence, feeding animals, or figuring out how to use what we already have, farm life keeps our hands busy and our minds curious. It’s no surprise that so many homesteaders eventually find themselves asking about soap making.

    Soap making fits naturally into farm life. It’s practical, creative, and deeply tied to stewardship. Rendered tallow, lard, fresh milk — these aren’t just byproducts, they’re opportunities. For families, soap making becomes a teachable skill. For kids in 4-H or FFA, it can turn into a fundraiser or small business. For farms, it can quietly support feed bills, hay costs, and seasonal income without adding chaos to daily chores.

    This isn’t about chasing trends or building something overnight. It’s about using what you already have and building a rhythm that works with the farm, not against it.

    The best place to begin isn’t shopping — it’s inventory. What do you have the most of? For many farms, the answer is pork fat or beef fat. Tallow and lard make exceptional soap bases, producing hard, long-lasting bars with a creamy lather. They also connect modern soap making to generations before us who relied on exactly what their land and livestock provided.

    From there, balance becomes the focus. While animal fats form a strong foundation, additional oils help fine-tune how a bar feels and performs. Coconut oil contributes cleansing and bubbles. Olive oil adds gentleness and conditioning. Shea butter and castor oil bring richness and lather, but both are best kept at around five percent or less. Too much of either can leave soap sticky or soft. Thoughtful formulation matters more than complexity.

    That balance extends to structure as well. Hard oils like tallow, lard, coconut oil, and small amounts of shea butter give soap durability and longevity. Soft oils such as olive oil and castor oil improve skin feel and conditioning. Superfat also plays an important role. A superfat range of five to seven percent creates a bar that lasts in the shower, doesn’t melt away quickly, and still treats skin kindly — especially important for hardworking hands.

    Liquid choice offers another place for creativity. Goat’s milk, cow’s milk, and sheep’s milk all produce beautifully gentle soaps, but milk isn’t required. Water, herbal teas, and even regional beer can all be used successfully. Soap making allows room for both tradition and experimentation.

    As recipes take shape, batch size and molds come into focus. Loaf molds are a favorite for good reason — they create consistent bars that are easy to cut, label, and package. Silicone molds can be expressive and fun, but they often complicate packaging, so it helps to think ahead to how the soap will actually be sold.

    Many makers begin with batches in the thirty-six to fifty-four ounce range, which are manageable and forgiving. Larger batches become appealing as confidence grows. Consistency matters, especially when selling, but inspiration matters too. Soap making should feel grounding, not exhausting.

    No matter how carefully batches are measured, there’s almost always a little extra batter. Keeping small molds on hand for overpours is one of those quiet tricks that prevents waste and creates opportunity. Overpours make excellent samples, donation pieces, market giveaways, and gift add-ins.

    Selling soap introduces a new layer of thought: understanding who you’re selling to. Most homesteaders quickly discover they don’t have just one demographic. Many blue-collar households want soap that lasts, doesn’t melt into mush, and doesn’t dry skin out. Clean, familiar scents often outperform trendy blends in rural and family-centered communities, while boutique spaces may invite more experimentation. The goal isn’t to chase every preference — it’s to know your audience.

    Fragrance oils deserve special attention. Reading soap notes is essential. Reputable suppliers document how fragrances behave in cold process soap, including acceleration and discoloration. Vanilla-based scents almost always darken to tan or brown. That doesn’t mean they can’t be beautiful, but it does mean planning ahead. One common technique is reserving a small portion of unscented soap — usually four to ten ounces — to color and swirl for contrast.

    When starting out, slow-moving fragrances are your friend. Acceleration leaves little working time and can overwhelm beginners. Reviews written by other soap makers are just as valuable as official notes, often offering real-world insight that saves time and frustration.

    Many homesteaders source fragrance oils from companies like Midwest Fragrance Company, Aztec Candle & Soap Supply, and Nurture Soap for their balance of performance and price. Higher-priced suppliers such as Bramble Berry also offer standout scents, but every fragrance should be priced per ounce and accounted for in the batch cost.

    When the numbers are done correctly, soap making becomes a powerful fundraising and income tool. Many bars can be produced for under two dollars and sold for five to eight dollars depending on the market. With a four-to-six-week cure time, soap aligns well with typical fundraising timelines — but offers far more education and pride than traditional campaigns. For youth involved in animal projects, soap sales can directly support feed, bedding, and show expenses.

    Seasonal planning makes all the difference. For the first year or two, minimal production throughout the year paired with heavier production starting in August works well. October through December becomes the main selling season, with the goal of covering a full year of hay or grain costs. Once that foundation is built, growth feels steady rather than stressful.

    Valentine’s Day soap is often made in late November or December, allowing plenty of cure time and avoiding post-holiday burnout. Smaller molds, gift sets, and overpours shine during this season. Trying to produce year-round before infrastructure is in place often leads to burnout. Building slowly builds longevity.

    Presentation matters, too. A strong logo and consistent label help people recognize your soap instantly. Tools like OnlineLabels allow makers to experiment with shapes and sizes without large upfront costs. Keeping a variety of labels on hand makes it easier to create gift baskets and seasonal packaging as inspiration strikes.

    Marketing doesn’t always require advertising. Many homesteaders find success through community involvement — donation baskets, raffles, church events, and silent auctions. Handmade items are especially prized at livestock shows and fundraisers, including those hosted by the American Dairy Goat Association, where quilts, soap baskets, and farm goods are both competitive and deeply appreciated.

    What began for me as a way to use farm abundance and offset costs slowly grew into something much bigger. Soap making turned into soap making classes, and those classes opened the door to agritourism — inviting people onto the farm to learn, slow down, and reconnect with where everyday goods come from.

    This past year, our farm was voted top five for best day trip, farm, and soap in the Kansas City area — something I never imagined when I first poured a small batch at the kitchen counter. We’re just 35–45 minutes outside the bustle of the city, yet people are willing to make the drive for something wholesome, hands-on, and real.

    That’s the quiet power of building something intentionally. Soap was never just soap — it became an invitation. An education. A bridge between rural life and curious hands looking to learn.

    And like most good farm projects, it all started small.

    One good bar at a time.

    Soap Making Read More »

    Homesteading

    Why Rabbits Might Beat Chickens on a Small Homestead

    When we started our homestead, we began with chickens. That feels like the natural order of things for most people. Later, we added rabbits. While it was a learning curve, now that we’ve figured out the best care and have our colonies settled, I can confidently make the case for rabbits over chickens.

    Here’s why:

    • Cleaner – Rabbits are tidier and produce manure that’s garden-ready without composting.
    • Easier to Handle – They’re quiet, gentle, and simple to manage.
    • Simpler to Process – Butchering rabbits is less labor-intensive than chickens.
    • Excellent Mothers – Rabbits are attentive and reliable breeders.
    • Extraordinary compost – Rabbit waste is ready for use immediately and truly enriches soil. 
    • Highly Prolific – With just two does and a buck, you can raise over 200 lbs of organic meat in a year.
    • Delicious – In my opinion, rabbit meat tastes better than chicken!

    I’ll admit, fresh eggs from chickens are nice but meat chickens don’t typically provide eggs. Rabbits, on the other hand, offer consistent meat production year-round.

    We raise ours colony style, though many prefer cages. Both methods have advantages, and it’s all about finding what works for you. All in all, raising rabbits is a rewarding endeavor for any small homestead.


    Rabbits vs. Chickens: Quick Comparison

    FeatureRabbitsChickens
    Space NeededMinimal (stackable hutches or colony space)Larger coop and run required
    Noise LevelSilentClucking and crowing
    ManureGarden-ready immediatelyRequires composting
    Meat Yield200+ lbs/year (2 does + buck)Varies; meat birds only. no reproduction of meat crosses
    EggsNoneYes (layers only)
    ProcessingEasier, less messyMore labor-intensive
    BreedingYear-round, very prolificSeasonal, less frequent. Meat crosses do not breed true.

    Why Rabbits Might Beat Chickens on a Small Homestead Read More »

    Homesteading

    The Dexter: The SmallHolder’s Cow

    Great for Small Acreage

    Dexters have long been promoted the same way time and time again, “Docile and Hardy little cattle, dubbed the smallholder’s cow because of their ability to exist on about half the acreage of other cattle.” This is the niche market of a Dexter. They are well suited to beginners because they can endure a bit of accidental neglect from new owners and be a great fit for people who have small acreage. Today when large acreage is becoming increasingly expensive in many areas, but people are feeling a strong draw to get back to the country, the small acreage Dexter cow is the most perfect sell point. This is a Hallmark of the breed and one that should be promoted.

    Quality and Quantity of their Milk and Beef

    Dexter cattle are also a good fit for people who need a smaller amount of both meat and milk, but yet they are still “renowned for the quality and quantity of their milk, second only in butterfat content to the famous jersey, and for small lean beef joints of excellent flavor”. There are other breeds than Jersey that outperform Dexters in cream content but usually they are not breeds that produce a good quantity of milk. The Highland for instance produces about 10% butterfat, but for its larger size produces quite a bit less by volume for its size. This is why the Dexter is an all-around great little cow.

    Great for Small and Big families alike

    The current average amount of people in a US family today is 3.15, so in a small 3-person household butchering a Dexter steer goes a very long way. As Dexter beef producers we will have a much easier time selling whole or halves to people. This avoids having to get a USDA certified meat facility which in some areas could save you more money on butchering costs. Many people are more accustomed to the idea of buying meat in a smaller quantity when they need or want it. With smaller sides you can market to people to be able to only fill a portion of their chest freezer and have space left over for other things. If you have a larger family that enjoys eating lots of beef and drinking more milk, no problem, enjoy the benefit of growing out a larger herd with more Dexters!

    This article was written 09 July 1992, and you will see the addition of dun is mentioned to the original color of black and red. Dun was added to the allowable Dexter colors and today many people never knew that black and red are the only 2 original colors.

    Written By Danielle of Bryn Mawr

    The Dexter: The SmallHolder’s Cow Read More »

    Historical

    How Can my Ranch or Homestead Pay For Itself

    The best advice I can give to those who are starting out….GO SLOW! You can still go slow and work toward your homestead, farm or ranch paying for itself. This podcast from Homesteaders of America gives some good solid advice…including paying yourself and your family for its efforts. These principles can be applied to any of your produced products.

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    How Can my Ranch or Homestead Pay For Itself Read More »

    Homesteading PipeDreams

    Dexter Arrival: A Homesteading Dream Realized, Hayburner Acres

    Our journey to homesteading began about five years ago. My husband and I were searching for self-sustainability, a quieter life, and a deeper connection to the land. Raised in the suburbs with every modern convenience, we only knew which grocery store had the freshest beef. That was the extent of our food sourcing knowledge.

    Once we acquired our acreage, we started, as many do, with chickens. At the time, I hadn’t even considered milking animals myself, so I went looking for farm-fresh milk. I found a local source, and with it, a whole new world. We began picking up a couple of gallons each week, but it didn’t take long before we wanted to produce our own.

    That’s how we ended up with Nubian goats.

    I was intimidated by the idea of milking and caring for them, but goats felt less daunting than a full-sized milk cow. Still, I had always loved and admired the Dexters at pickup. Just being around them brought a peace I couldn’t explain. They were a dream, something for “someday.”

    Fast forward a few years, and someday finally came.

    About a month ago, we brought home our first Dexters: a heifer and a steer. And how’s it going? In a word? beautifully.

    The first thing I noticed was their peaceful nature. Just being near them calms my nervous system in a way I can’t begin to describe. I’m absolutely head over heels in love. I’ve started thinning down my goat herd to make room for more Dexters in the future.

    I’m learning to be a pasture and grass farmer (also moving fencing, adding pastures) all to better serve my Dexters. I’m excited to contribute to the breed by selecting strong lines and continuing the work that’s already been poured into my girl, Fiona.

    Am I still intimidated by the idea of milking them? Absolutely.
    Will I do it anyway and love it once the time comes? Without a doubt.

    There’s still so much to learn—about pasture management, breeding, and eventually milking—but I’m ready. With the right mentors and a heart full of determination, we’ll thrive. Fiona and Chuck are home now, and so are we. This is just the beginning of a lifelong journey with Dexters, and I couldn’t be more excited to walk it one peaceful step at a time.

    I’m looking forward to many years alongside this incredible breed.

    Dexter Arrival: A Homesteading Dream Realized, Hayburner Acres Read More »

    Homesteading

    Dexter Cattle: Mini Cows Are Perfect For Preppers and Small Homesteads

    There is no better way to ensure the survival of the family in case of a SHTF scenario and to create a sustainable homestead than to grow and raise your own groceries. There are a plethora of traditional farm animals which can help keep the family well-fed year around or during a long-term disaster, but when both space and budget are limited, one stands out above many of the rest – Dexter cattle.

    Dexter Cattle: Mini Cows Are Perfect For Preppers and Small Homesteads Read More »

    Homesteading

    Homesteading and Irish Dexter Cattle Podcast

    A Deep Dive Podcast, brought to you by Irish Dexter Cattlemen, on topics of interest to all farmers and ranchers. Subscribe to the free, monthly Irish Dexter Cattlemen Tips & Tricks Guide to get early access.

    Brought to you by these Breeders, Affiliates, & Sponsors

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    Homesteading and Irish Dexter Cattle Podcast Read More »

    Podcasts

    Miniature Cattle: For Real, For Pets, For Production

    Near Seattle, Washington, Richard and Arlene Gradwohl were seeing the effects of urban sprawl, as housing developments started
    to sprout up around their property. Arlene, having grown up on a farm, wished to maintain a rural lifestyle. Richard, a community college business professor, investigated the possibilities with an entrepreneurial eye. He soon saw the potential smaller cattle could have on their smaller property. Always stressing new product development, Richard soon was educating himself on miniature and small cattle breeds, acquiring breeding stock, and utilizing linebreeding techniques. Beginning with Dexter cattle and keeping some of their smallest Herefords, his new product focus became developing new breeds of miniature cattle. To date he has developed 18—yes 18—new breeds of miniature cattle and is enjoying his working retirement as a Professor Emeritus (Gradwohl interview 2007).

    Miniature Cattle: For Real, For Pets, For Production Read More »

    Homesteading
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