Homesteading

Rabbit Raising – Part 1: Keeping Them Alive

Before you buy rabbits, decide why you’re raising them. This one choice affects everything else.

Beginner Tip: Don’t buy rabbits first and figure out a plan later. Housing and purpose should come beforebreed.

Why Are You Raising Rabbits?

Pets / Show Sales

  • Choose popular, marketable breeds (Rex do well)
  • Breed for traits buyers want: color, coat, size, personality
  • Breed to SOP
  • Watch trends, but also look for gaps in your local market

**I do not enjoy selling pet rabbits but it is an option. 

Beginner Tip: Spend time watching local listings and social media before breeding. What’s already selling tells you what people want.

Food

  • Focus on fast-growing, efficient breeds (New Zealand, Californian)
  • Breed for size and speed to market, not looks

Beginner Tip: Bigger and faster is usually better than “prettier” when raising meat rabbits.

Housing Options

Cages

  • Require climate control
  • Easier breeding control and litter monitoring
  • Less natural, more predictable

Beginner Tip: Cage systems are often easier for first-time breeders because problems are easier to spot early.

Colony

  • Rabbits regulate temperature by digging
  • Little breeding control unless sexes are separated
  • Must prevent escape
  • Introduce rabbits at the same time to reduce fighting

Beginner Tip: Colony systems work best when planned ahead, retrofitting almost always causes headaches.

Hybrid

  • Colony-style living with barriers to prevent digging out
  • Requires weather monitoring, especially in summer
  • Include an underground or partially buried area for cooling

Beginner Tip: Hybrid systems offer a good balance for beginners who want natural behavior with some control.

Shelter Setup

Primary Shelter
Where your breeders live.

Beginner Tip: If breeders are stressed, everything else goes downhill: prioritize this space.

Grow-Out Area
A separate space for young rabbits so breeders don’t get overcrowded.

Beginner Tip: Overcrowding is a fast way to create health problems.

Rabbit Tractor
A movable pen for grow-outs that provides lawn care.

Beginner Tip: Tractors are great for grow-outs, but not ideal for breeders long-term.

Substrate Choices

  • Hay: Great for nesting, edible, but holds moisture and waste
  • Wood Chips: Similar to hay, not edible
  • Wood Pellets: Absorb liquid well, easy to clean, usually the most expensive

Beginner Tip: If something smells bad, it’s time to change it, even if the schedule says otherwise.

Food & Feeding Basics

  • Free-feed quality rabbit pellets
  • Supplement with grass or garden clippings when possible
  • Keep food off the ground

Beginner Tip: Most feeding problems are actually feeder placement problems, not feed problems.

Common Beginner Concerns

Choosing Rabbits

  • Decide on housing first
  • Cage-raised rabbits may struggle outdoors in heat
  • Colony-raised rabbits usually adapt better to cages, but may struggle mentally

Beginner Tip: Ask breeders how their rabbits were raised before buying.

Heat

  • Underground hides work best
  • Fans and frozen water bottles help
  • Always provide plenty of water

Beginner Tip: Heat kills faster than cold, plan for summer first.

Cold

  • Rarely a problem
  • Keep rabbits dry and out of wind

Beginner Tip: Wet + cold is dangerous; dry + cold usually isn’t.

Losses

  • Some losses are normal
  • Disease and stress happen

Beginner Tip: Everyone loses rabbits at some point—don’t quit after the first setback.

Health Issues to Watch For

Coccidia

  • Weight loss, dirty tails
  • Treat quickly
  • Many breeders select for resistance

Beginner Tip: Clean, dry pens dramatically reduce coccidia risk.

Weaning Enteritis

  • Around 4 weeks old
  • Often sudden and severe

Beginner Tip: Watch young rabbits closely during weaning, it’s the most vulnerable time.

GI Stasis

  • Gut slowdown
  • Remove pellets, offer grass hay

Beginner Tip: When in doubt, simplify the diet.

Pasteurella

  • Spread by wild rabbits
  • Often fatal
  • Symptoms: heavy sneezing, nasal discharge, lethargy

Beginner Tip: Occasional sneezing is normal—constant sneezing with discharge is not.

Rabbit Raising – Part 1: Keeping Them Alive Read More »

Homesteading

Broken Arrow “A” Livestock

Broken Arrow “A” Livestock is a small farm in Southwest Iowa owned and operated by Aaron and Erica Lantz and their two sons.  Aaron represents the 5th generation of Lantz’s who have produced livestock on the property since 1872.  In 2009, we decided to begin producing our own pork because we were disenchanted with purchased commercial pork.  Aaron’s father and grandfather both raised hogs in a 60 sow farrow to finish program as he was growing up.  In the 1970’s and 1980’s, their program was to buy a non-descript black hog out of Missouri known locally as “Missouri Acorn Hogs”.  They were an old lard-type crossbred hog that could be purchased cheap.  They had excellent mothering abilities and when crossed with Farmer’s Hybrid boars, produced strong litters of hogs that performed well.  These hogs were fatty, but not necessarily fatty enough to be considered a lard style hog.  Beginning in the 1980’s, buyers would dock these hogs as being too fatty in favor of leaner breeds.  For a while, it was worthwhile to take a dock at the buyers and justify the loss as the price paid for ease of management.  Eventually, these hogs were refused at the buyers and we had to stop raising them since there was no way to sell them.  We retained gilts from our program and began introducing leaner breed boars.  We used various breeds to build our program including:  Hampshire, Landrace, Duroc, and Berkshire.  Every two years we would retain new gilts and buy a new breed of boar from a reputable breeder to maximize heterosis.  Eventually, even these hogs did not meet market demands and we were forced to stop raising them.  Eventually, these hogs were sold and the Lantz family purchased Yorks and began raising a true commercial hog.  This endeavor was short lived, since the hog market crashed in the late 1990’s and the family decided to exit hog production entirely. 

Aaron knew what good pork was supposed to taste like, but it wasn’t possible to replicate the breeding program originating from the Missouri Acorn Hog sows and Farmer’s Hybrid boars.  We had an ideal carcass in mind and began researching which heritage breed would most likely result in the ideal carcass type.  This lead us to purchase our first Red Wattles in 2009.  We learned quickly that Red Wattles are VERY large and between the slow growth curve, small litters, and large feed inputs…we would be challenged to be profitable.  However, we also found that we absolutely loved the carcass.  It is not as deeply red as Berkshire, but has a rich and distinctive flavor with an ideal balance of fat.  We decided that Kune Kune would be a good compliment to the extreme size of the Red Wattle without compromising carcass quality or the docility and easy handling nature of the hogs.  Red Wattles are thought to be a Polynesian breed that made it to New Orleans by way of the French and the breed was resurrected from wild hogs used to homestead Texas.  Kune Kune are also Polynesian and share some attributes like wattling, so it made sense to us to make the cross.  This launched us on a path of dialing in our genetics with the goal of achieving the perfect carcass using a hog ideal to manage.  We have strategically introduced the following breeds:

  • Mangalitsa for carcass attributes including a low collagen fat complex.  This breed can be challenging to raise in the summer heat of Iowa and can be challenging to handle. 
  • Iowa Swabian Hall is a similar composite program to our own and we sought to add the work done by other breeders to consolidate the value.
  • Meishan was introduced for their prolific litters and early maturation in addition to carcass flavor attributes and fat distribution in the carcass.
  • Mulefoot and Ossabaw are Spanish type genetics known for their carcass complex ideal for curing. 
  • Gloucestershire Old Spot and Large Black are old British breeds known for their balance of carcass attributes and management attributes. 
  • A very small amount of Berkshire was used in the program.  To obtain the genetics we sought, we sometimes had to use crossbred animals.  Berkshire is a popular breed to make heritage type crosses and, while we didn’t actively seek to use Berkshire specifically, we were not opposed to these genetics for their carcass color and flavor attributes. 

At first, we had a significant amount of variety in our crossbred animals.  After having obtained the genetics we thought we needed to create the ideal hog, we closed the program.  We didn’t actively make a decision to close the program, but rather ran out of need to obtain animals from outside programs.  To standardize our hogs, we began using a program to select for replacement breeding stock within our own herd and rotating males and females strategically to use linebreeding to concentrate ideal attributes in a consistent “type”.  We’ve maintained this program for approximately the last 10 years.  We still get some variety in the offspring, but we are becoming more consistent for type and performance with each rotation.  The program goes as follows:  We obtain a group of like gilts the same age.  The goal is to start with 40 gilts, but cull over the coarse of 3 litters to the 10 most ideal and productive females.  We retain the boars we were using for the previous breeding that sired the current group of gilts.  We use those boars on the new group of gilts for one breeding.  There is a chance a sire could breed a daughter, but the pairings are left to chance and often times the boar that breeds any given gilt is not that gilt’s sire.  From this first set of litters we select 6-9 boar prospects and begin growing them with the intention that 2-3 of these will be used to propagate more breeding stock.  We get a second set of litters from the aged boars and all of those offspring are terminal.  We will sell breeding stock females from this group that people can use in their own “heritage type” programs.  After the second set of litters we cull the older boars.  The younger boars take over for the third and fourth sets of litters.  This means that the new boars are sons of the females used to breed.  Again, random pairings ensure some genetic diversity and there is no guarantee that a son breeds his dam…though it is possible.  The third set of litters is also terminal.  We don’t save anything from these litters, but we do assess their quality and use this to arrive at our 10 best sows.  It is from these sows bred to the new boars that we save back a new group of 40 females and begin growing them.  We will get a 5th and 6th set of litters from the older sows so that we remain productive while growing the replacement gilt group, but these offspring will all be terminal.  It is at this point we part with all the older female breeding stock and start over with the same boars we’d been using and a new group of gilts to repeat the process again.  Each cycle, we select animals that meet our ideals and the offspring become more consistent in type and performance.  Because random pairings are utilized, this program can be maintained indefinitely with little detriment to the performance of the hogs and over time the risk of recessive disorders cropping up decreases.  We are just very careful to cull any animals that produce issues and only select ideal animals to reproduce.  Eventually, we will have achieved a proprietary “landrace” breed that we could consider recognizing as a true breed.  At this time, creating a new, recognized breed is not part of our plans.  We are just happy to raise a hog that we are proud to feed our family with.

Producers wishing to obtain genetics have lots of options for utilizing those genetics to benefit their personal production goals.  We suggest breeding our seedstock to Hereford, Tamworth, Berkshire, or Idaho Pasture Pigs.  These breeds are complimentary and offer lots of heterosis.  We are very confident in performance and carcass quality.  We expect our hogs to grow to a normal marketable weight at about 300 lbs with a reasonably significant fat layer without being excessive and low in collagen.  Meat should be darker complected (though not as dark as to be comparable to beef or called “red”) and show good marbling with a texture and juiciness more comparable to beef than to commercial pork.  Cuts will be disproportionate in size to comparable commercial breed cuts, because these heritage-type hogs will flesh and grow differently with a different frame structure that impacts cut size and shape.  The flavor should be rich and distinct.  While not technically either “beefy” or “porky”, the flavor should parallel the mouth appeal and richness of beef though it is not the same flavor as beef.  Producers could also choose to breed to any of the genetics used to develop these hogs in an effort to strengthen certain key attributes.  Breeding to Red Wattle, Iowa Swabian Hall, or Mangalitsa are good choices to enhance management attributes while keeping the carcass attributes of the paired breed.  Really, these hogs are very versatile and could be successfully leveraged to add benefit to just about any program with any goals.

Erica Lantz 

Feeders Grain & Farm Supply Inc 

2052 Hunter Trail 

Corning, Iowa 50841

P: 641-322-4011

Broken Arrow “A” Livestock Read More »

Homesteading

Soap Making

Getting Into Soap Making: A Farm-Rooted Approach

by Lexy Schussler

    On the farm, there’s always a project going on.

    Whether it’s fixing fence, feeding animals, or figuring out how to use what we already have, farm life keeps our hands busy and our minds curious. It’s no surprise that so many homesteaders eventually find themselves asking about soap making.

    Soap making fits naturally into farm life. It’s practical, creative, and deeply tied to stewardship. Rendered tallow, lard, fresh milk — these aren’t just byproducts, they’re opportunities. For families, soap making becomes a teachable skill. For kids in 4-H or FFA, it can turn into a fundraiser or small business. For farms, it can quietly support feed bills, hay costs, and seasonal income without adding chaos to daily chores.

    This isn’t about chasing trends or building something overnight. It’s about using what you already have and building a rhythm that works with the farm, not against it.

    The best place to begin isn’t shopping — it’s inventory. What do you have the most of? For many farms, the answer is pork fat or beef fat. Tallow and lard make exceptional soap bases, producing hard, long-lasting bars with a creamy lather. They also connect modern soap making to generations before us who relied on exactly what their land and livestock provided.

    From there, balance becomes the focus. While animal fats form a strong foundation, additional oils help fine-tune how a bar feels and performs. Coconut oil contributes cleansing and bubbles. Olive oil adds gentleness and conditioning. Shea butter and castor oil bring richness and lather, but both are best kept at around five percent or less. Too much of either can leave soap sticky or soft. Thoughtful formulation matters more than complexity.

    That balance extends to structure as well. Hard oils like tallow, lard, coconut oil, and small amounts of shea butter give soap durability and longevity. Soft oils such as olive oil and castor oil improve skin feel and conditioning. Superfat also plays an important role. A superfat range of five to seven percent creates a bar that lasts in the shower, doesn’t melt away quickly, and still treats skin kindly — especially important for hardworking hands.

    Liquid choice offers another place for creativity. Goat’s milk, cow’s milk, and sheep’s milk all produce beautifully gentle soaps, but milk isn’t required. Water, herbal teas, and even regional beer can all be used successfully. Soap making allows room for both tradition and experimentation.

    As recipes take shape, batch size and molds come into focus. Loaf molds are a favorite for good reason — they create consistent bars that are easy to cut, label, and package. Silicone molds can be expressive and fun, but they often complicate packaging, so it helps to think ahead to how the soap will actually be sold.

    Many makers begin with batches in the thirty-six to fifty-four ounce range, which are manageable and forgiving. Larger batches become appealing as confidence grows. Consistency matters, especially when selling, but inspiration matters too. Soap making should feel grounding, not exhausting.

    No matter how carefully batches are measured, there’s almost always a little extra batter. Keeping small molds on hand for overpours is one of those quiet tricks that prevents waste and creates opportunity. Overpours make excellent samples, donation pieces, market giveaways, and gift add-ins.

    Selling soap introduces a new layer of thought: understanding who you’re selling to. Most homesteaders quickly discover they don’t have just one demographic. Many blue-collar households want soap that lasts, doesn’t melt into mush, and doesn’t dry skin out. Clean, familiar scents often outperform trendy blends in rural and family-centered communities, while boutique spaces may invite more experimentation. The goal isn’t to chase every preference — it’s to know your audience.

    Fragrance oils deserve special attention. Reading soap notes is essential. Reputable suppliers document how fragrances behave in cold process soap, including acceleration and discoloration. Vanilla-based scents almost always darken to tan or brown. That doesn’t mean they can’t be beautiful, but it does mean planning ahead. One common technique is reserving a small portion of unscented soap — usually four to ten ounces — to color and swirl for contrast.

    When starting out, slow-moving fragrances are your friend. Acceleration leaves little working time and can overwhelm beginners. Reviews written by other soap makers are just as valuable as official notes, often offering real-world insight that saves time and frustration.

    Many homesteaders source fragrance oils from companies like Midwest Fragrance Company, Aztec Candle & Soap Supply, and Nurture Soap for their balance of performance and price. Higher-priced suppliers such as Bramble Berry also offer standout scents, but every fragrance should be priced per ounce and accounted for in the batch cost.

    When the numbers are done correctly, soap making becomes a powerful fundraising and income tool. Many bars can be produced for under two dollars and sold for five to eight dollars depending on the market. With a four-to-six-week cure time, soap aligns well with typical fundraising timelines — but offers far more education and pride than traditional campaigns. For youth involved in animal projects, soap sales can directly support feed, bedding, and show expenses.

    Seasonal planning makes all the difference. For the first year or two, minimal production throughout the year paired with heavier production starting in August works well. October through December becomes the main selling season, with the goal of covering a full year of hay or grain costs. Once that foundation is built, growth feels steady rather than stressful.

    Valentine’s Day soap is often made in late November or December, allowing plenty of cure time and avoiding post-holiday burnout. Smaller molds, gift sets, and overpours shine during this season. Trying to produce year-round before infrastructure is in place often leads to burnout. Building slowly builds longevity.

    Presentation matters, too. A strong logo and consistent label help people recognize your soap instantly. Tools like OnlineLabels allow makers to experiment with shapes and sizes without large upfront costs. Keeping a variety of labels on hand makes it easier to create gift baskets and seasonal packaging as inspiration strikes.

    Marketing doesn’t always require advertising. Many homesteaders find success through community involvement — donation baskets, raffles, church events, and silent auctions. Handmade items are especially prized at livestock shows and fundraisers, including those hosted by the American Dairy Goat Association, where quilts, soap baskets, and farm goods are both competitive and deeply appreciated.

    What began for me as a way to use farm abundance and offset costs slowly grew into something much bigger. Soap making turned into soap making classes, and those classes opened the door to agritourism — inviting people onto the farm to learn, slow down, and reconnect with where everyday goods come from.

    This past year, our farm was voted top five for best day trip, farm, and soap in the Kansas City area — something I never imagined when I first poured a small batch at the kitchen counter. We’re just 35–45 minutes outside the bustle of the city, yet people are willing to make the drive for something wholesome, hands-on, and real.

    That’s the quiet power of building something intentionally. Soap was never just soap — it became an invitation. An education. A bridge between rural life and curious hands looking to learn.

    And like most good farm projects, it all started small.

    One good bar at a time.

    Soap Making Read More »

    Homesteading

    Sheep Vs Goats

    Which animal is best for YOUR homestead?

    In addition to our wonderful Dexter cows, and our various poultry, we added sheep to our homestead. But, are sheep the right next step for you? Watch this short and informative video to help narrow down which animal would blend best into your system.

    Sheep Vs Goats Read More »

    Homesteading

    ASK THE BUTCHER! How To Field Dress A Deer!

    Here’s a clear, practical short article on how to properly field dress a deer:

    How to Field Dress a Deer Properly

    Field dressing a deer is an essential skill for any hunter who wants to preserve high-quality meat and ensure safe handling in the field. Done correctly, it cools the carcass quickly, prevents spoilage, and prepares the animal for transport. The process is straightforward but requires care, cleanliness, and attention to safety.

    1. Prepare Your Tools and Area

    Before beginning, ensure you have a sharp knife, gloves, and a stable place to work. Position the deer on its back with the head uphill if possible—this helps control blood flow and keeps the interior clean.

    1. Make the Initial Incision

    Start by cutting a small opening at the base of the sternum or just above the pelvis. Pinch the skin upward as you cut to avoid puncturing internal organs. Continue the incision along the midline up toward the ribcage. Many hunters stop at the sternum, but you can split the ribcage if needed for faster cooling.

    1. Open the Body Cavity

    Carefully separate hide and muscle from the abdominal wall. Use two fingers to lift the skin and guide the knife to prevent piercing the stomach or intestines, which can contaminate the meat.

    1. Remove the Organs

    Begin by freeing the diaphragm—the thin membrane separating the chest cavity from the abdomen. Cut around the esophagus and windpipe, then pull downward to remove the heart, lungs, and other internal organs in one controlled motion. Roll organs away to keep the cavity clean.

    1. Drain and Clean

    Tip or roll the deer to drain excess blood and fluids. Wipe debris from the cavity but avoid rinsing with water unless absolutely necessary, as moisture can encourage bacterial growth.

    1. Cool the Carcass

    Proper cooling is critical. Prop open the chest cavity with a stick or spreader to allow airflow. In warm weather, consider removing the hide more quickly to speed cooling.

    1. Transport Safely

    Once field dressed, move the deer to a clean, shaded location. Use game bags if packing out to keep meat free from dirt and insects.

    Proper field dressing is about efficiency, respect for the animal, and food safety. With practice and patience, the process becomes smoother and results in high-quality venison every time.

    ASK THE BUTCHER! How To Field Dress A Deer! Read More »

    Homesteading PipeDreams

    Why Rabbits Might Beat Chickens on a Small Homestead

    When we started our homestead, we began with chickens. That feels like the natural order of things for most people. Later, we added rabbits. While it was a learning curve, now that we’ve figured out the best care and have our colonies settled, I can confidently make the case for rabbits over chickens.

    Here’s why:

    • Cleaner – Rabbits are tidier and produce manure that’s garden-ready without composting.
    • Easier to Handle – They’re quiet, gentle, and simple to manage.
    • Simpler to Process – Butchering rabbits is less labor-intensive than chickens.
    • Excellent Mothers – Rabbits are attentive and reliable breeders.
    • Extraordinary compost – Rabbit waste is ready for use immediately and truly enriches soil. 
    • Highly Prolific – With just two does and a buck, you can raise over 200 lbs of organic meat in a year.
    • Delicious – In my opinion, rabbit meat tastes better than chicken!

    I’ll admit, fresh eggs from chickens are nice but meat chickens don’t typically provide eggs. Rabbits, on the other hand, offer consistent meat production year-round.

    We raise ours colony style, though many prefer cages. Both methods have advantages, and it’s all about finding what works for you. All in all, raising rabbits is a rewarding endeavor for any small homestead.


    Rabbits vs. Chickens: Quick Comparison

    FeatureRabbitsChickens
    Space NeededMinimal (stackable hutches or colony space)Larger coop and run required
    Noise LevelSilentClucking and crowing
    ManureGarden-ready immediatelyRequires composting
    Meat Yield200+ lbs/year (2 does + buck)Varies; meat birds only. no reproduction of meat crosses
    EggsNoneYes (layers only)
    ProcessingEasier, less messyMore labor-intensive
    BreedingYear-round, very prolificSeasonal, less frequent. Meat crosses do not breed true.

    Why Rabbits Might Beat Chickens on a Small Homestead Read More »

    Homesteading

    How Can my Ranch or Homestead Pay For Itself

    The best advice I can give to those who are starting out….GO SLOW! You can still go slow and work toward your homestead, farm or ranch paying for itself. This podcast from Homesteaders of America gives some good solid advice…including paying yourself and your family for its efforts. These principles can be applied to any of your produced products.

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    How Can my Ranch or Homestead Pay For Itself Read More »

    Homesteading PipeDreams

    Have You Considered Fodder To Feed Your Livestock?

    Sprouts (also known as “fodder” when used for animals) are economical to produce.  Typical cost of production is less than 6 cents per lb.  This includes seed, water, and electricity.  Although sprouts cannot replace 100% of an animal’s diet, they have been scientifically proven to increase the digestibility of other feeds in the gut.  That means your hay or grain will become more valuable to the animals you feed.

    Have You Considered Fodder To Feed Your Livestock? Read More »

    Homesteading

    Dexter Arrival: A Homesteading Dream Realized, Hayburner Acres

    Our journey to homesteading began about five years ago. My husband and I were searching for self-sustainability, a quieter life, and a deeper connection to the land. Raised in the suburbs with every modern convenience, we only knew which grocery store had the freshest beef. That was the extent of our food sourcing knowledge.

    Once we acquired our acreage, we started, as many do, with chickens. At the time, I hadn’t even considered milking animals myself, so I went looking for farm-fresh milk. I found a local source, and with it, a whole new world. We began picking up a couple of gallons each week, but it didn’t take long before we wanted to produce our own.

    That’s how we ended up with Nubian goats.

    I was intimidated by the idea of milking and caring for them, but goats felt less daunting than a full-sized milk cow. Still, I had always loved and admired the Dexters at pickup. Just being around them brought a peace I couldn’t explain. They were a dream, something for “someday.”

    Fast forward a few years, and someday finally came.

    About a month ago, we brought home our first Dexters: a heifer and a steer. And how’s it going? In a word? beautifully.

    The first thing I noticed was their peaceful nature. Just being near them calms my nervous system in a way I can’t begin to describe. I’m absolutely head over heels in love. I’ve started thinning down my goat herd to make room for more Dexters in the future.

    I’m learning to be a pasture and grass farmer (also moving fencing, adding pastures) all to better serve my Dexters. I’m excited to contribute to the breed by selecting strong lines and continuing the work that’s already been poured into my girl, Fiona.

    Am I still intimidated by the idea of milking them? Absolutely.
    Will I do it anyway and love it once the time comes? Without a doubt.

    There’s still so much to learn—about pasture management, breeding, and eventually milking—but I’m ready. With the right mentors and a heart full of determination, we’ll thrive. Fiona and Chuck are home now, and so are we. This is just the beginning of a lifelong journey with Dexters, and I couldn’t be more excited to walk it one peaceful step at a time.

    I’m looking forward to many years alongside this incredible breed.

    Dexter Arrival: A Homesteading Dream Realized, Hayburner Acres Read More »

    Homesteading

    Feta dip from cows milk feta…easy and quick!

    This was fabulous…while I made it with goats milk…I could have made it with Dexter milk, but I had it already made from goat.

    Don’t skip the rinsing or it will be too salty

    Sure to impress you with chips, pita, sourdough bread…….

    I use a version of the recipe below to make feta as well….bon appetite!

    https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/1273-whipped-feta-dip

    https://cheesemaking.com/products/feta-cheese-making-recipe

    Feta dip from cows milk feta…easy and quick! Read More »

    Homesteading

    Mentorship

    From Curiosity to Confidence: The Power of Mentorship in Homesteading

    When we packed up and moved to a new state, we knew we were signing up for a life of hard work. Beyond that? We were flying blind. With little more than enthusiasm and a Pinterest board full of dreams, we dove headfirst into the world of chickens and ducks. But when it came to dairy animals, I hesitated. I didn’t feel ready. I wasn’t sure I ever would be.

    Then came a turning point—what began as a simple search for local raw milk turned into something far more valuable: I found a mentor.

    And not just any mentor—the perfect one. Local, experienced, generous with her time and wisdom. I had originally envisioned a milk cow (because let’s be honest, that’s what all the idyllic homestead photos show, right?). But after countless visits to her farm and long, thoughtful conversations about what would actually work for our lifestyle, I started with dairy goats instead.

    It’s been a whirlwind ever since.

    From panicked texts about what to feed, to late-night worries over a listless goat, she’s been there—steady, supportive, and full of insight. Her guidance has been nothing short of a godsend.

    If I could offer one piece of advice to anyone considering this lifestyle, it would be this: find a mentor. Not just someone who knows their stuff, but someone who cares deeply about what they do—and about helping others succeed.

    And here’s the secret: when you invest in quality animals, you often find that mentor built right in. Breeders who truly care about their stock want to see them thrive, even after they leave the farm. That’s where the real relationships begin.

    In just four years, I’ve grown more than I ever imagined—not just in skill, but in confidence. Sure, I could have learned it all the hard way. But would I have come this far, this fast? I doubt it.

    Mentorship isn’t just helpful in homesteading—it’s essential. It’s the bridge between dreaming and doing.

    Foot note….. Lisa and her husband Matt are members of the Irish Dexter Cattlemen and anxiously awaiting the arrival of their first Dexters next month.

    Mentorship Read More »

    Homesteading

    Dexter Cattle: Mini Cows Are Perfect For Preppers and Small Homesteads

    There is no better way to ensure the survival of the family in case of a SHTF scenario and to create a sustainable homestead than to grow and raise your own groceries. There are a plethora of traditional farm animals which can help keep the family well-fed year around or during a long-term disaster, but when both space and budget are limited, one stands out above many of the rest – Dexter cattle.

    Dexter Cattle: Mini Cows Are Perfect For Preppers and Small Homesteads Read More »

    Homesteading

    Miniature Cattle: For Real, For Pets, For Production

    Near Seattle, Washington, Richard and Arlene Gradwohl were seeing the effects of urban sprawl, as housing developments started
    to sprout up around their property. Arlene, having grown up on a farm, wished to maintain a rural lifestyle. Richard, a community college business professor, investigated the possibilities with an entrepreneurial eye. He soon saw the potential smaller cattle could have on their smaller property. Always stressing new product development, Richard soon was educating himself on miniature and small cattle breeds, acquiring breeding stock, and utilizing linebreeding techniques. Beginning with Dexter cattle and keeping some of their smallest Herefords, his new product focus became developing new breeds of miniature cattle. To date he has developed 18—yes 18—new breeds of miniature cattle and is enjoying his working retirement as a Professor Emeritus (Gradwohl interview 2007).

    Miniature Cattle: For Real, For Pets, For Production Read More »

    Homesteading

    Mini Moo Magic: The Fascinating Story of Miniature Cows

    Breeds like Miniature Highlands, Miniature Herefords, and Dexters didn’t just pop up overnight. Their histories are as varied as their appearances, with some, like the Dexter, dating back centuries, and others, like the Mini Hereford, emerging through decades of selective breeding. As land prices rise and the demand for sustainable, manageable livestock grows, miniature cattle have carved out a meaningful niche in the farming world.

    Mini Moo Magic: The Fascinating Story of Miniature Cows Read More »

    Homesteading
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